Posted by: geargals | October 26, 2012

Dog First Aid Kit – Winter Edition

The good news– winter is coming! For those whose four-legged friends love winter, it’s also time to consider how to have fun and stay safe in the backcountry. From paws to tails, it is important to prevent, or be able to treat, common injuries and illnesses.

1. Check-up time!
Before starting any adventure, winter or summer, it’s important to ask: Is my dog healthy? Many dogs will follow their owners until they can no longer walk. They are incredibly loyal, trusting creatures. Dogs (like humans) must be fit and ready before tackling the trail. Speak to your vet about your plans, and consider age, breed, size, and fitness level when selecting your next adventure. Overweight animals will put additional wear and tear on joints, as well as overheat more easily during exercise. “Weekend warrior” dogs may be at more risk of tearing their CCL (dog equivalent of the ACL), and some breeds may be more susceptible to frostbite than others. Your once-a-year “well-dog” visit to the vet is a great time to ask these questions.

2. Keep cool (or warm)!
Imagine walking around in a fur coat, with only the surface of your hands, feet, and mouth to dissipate heat. Dogs can only sweat through their paws, or pant to loose heat by evaporation. Even on days that feel cold to us, it is possible that with intense exercise your dog can get very warm. While heat exhaustion and heat stroke are not common winter problems, it is still important to make sure that your dog has access to water (not just snow) to prevent dehydration. Conversely, if you are stopped for a period of time or have a dog with very short, thin hair (i.e. greyhounds, Rhodesian Ridgebacks, and pointers), you should consider how to keep your dog warm. Even Iditarod mushers are careful with their shorter-haired dogs when they stop for the night. Learn what makes your dog comfortable, and be sure to bring water and a dog coat, if needed, on your next adventure. In all cases, your dog is going to be burning a lot of calories to stay warm, so plan accordingly and bring snacks or extra dog food on long trips.

Helpful first-aid additions: Thermometer, insulating layer (especially for the stomach if the dog is going to be laying down), Extra food, and lots of clean water.

3. Watch the feet!
Dogs make contact with the ground with specially designed pads, which can toughen over time if exposed to rough terrain. They also were recently shown to have counter-current blood flow, which keep the feet warm even in very cold weather. However, feet are also some of the more common injuries, and can prevent you from getting back to the trailhead. Watch for things that can puncture pads, and be sure to keep them as free of ice balls as possible. Too-long nails can break at the quick, and can be very painful. Bringing along well-fitted dog boots, like RuffWear TrekBoots or, in winter, musher’s boots, can make a big difference in the health and happiness of your dog. Lastly, skis can slice through a dog’s skin, severing tendons in the lower leg and leading to debilitating, permanent injury. Be very, very cautious and train your dog carefully to avoid this common backcountry ski accident.

Helpful first-aid additions: Boots (well-fitted), tweezers (for removing debris from pads) gauze squares, septic powder (for broken nails), cloth tape, and Vetwrap (the wonder product brought to you by the people that made sticky notes! Find it at the vet, a local Agway, or in the first-aid section. An Ace-bandage for your dog).

Fun tip: One way to prevent ice/snow ball formation on long-haired dogs is to use PAM spray, or ShowSheen (usually for horses, find in a tack store). Musher’s Secret is a specific formula just for feet as well. None work for more than an hour, but it can at least keep the worst fur balls at bay.

4. Dog vs. nature.
Luckily, many of the critters that you might encounter in summer, such as rattlesnakes, porcupines, and stinging insects, are nowhere to be found in winter. With that said, it is still possible for wildlife and terrain to take advantage of your dog’s lust for adventure. Be extra cautious around ice d-over ponds and snow formations that could trap a dog. Any wildlife you come across is already working hard to survive, so make sure your dog has a reliable recall or bring a leash so animals aren’t harassed. Lastly, avalanches are just as deadly for dogs as they are for people. While it may seem like a good idea to attach an old avy beacon to your dog, keep in mind that if there is a burial it is impossible to distinguish your dog buddy’s signal from your human partner’s. The newest Pieps transceivers can be set to two frequencies, and you can purchase a dog signal specific beacon. Perhaps the best alternative, however, is to leave your 4-legged partner behind on higher danger days.

Helpful first aid additions: Beware drowning and suffocation injuries, and only use a dog-specific avalanche beacon (if you use one at all).

Winter is coming, along with special health concerns for outdoor dogs. Have a great, and fun, winter season!

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Posted by: geargals | November 20, 2011

D-Fa Puff Doggy Dog Jacket


[Geardog is not in any of these photos, by the way. These are photos courtesy of D-Fa and their professional photographer Fredrik Larssen, which is why they are really good photos and not the utter crap that happens when I pick up a camera.]

Most of you readers know by now that Geardog, my trained search and rescue/avalanche dog is my most trusted and important partner. We spend a ton of time working and training together, and since Geardog looks to me to make sure all his needs are met, I have the responsibility of making sure that he’s able to do his job at any time in all conditions.

There is a perception that search dogs and handlers go racing quickly into the scene to save the day. This is rarely true in the sense that most people think of it – “responding quickly” is done in an organized fashion that looks painfully slow to people used to made-for-TV drama and action movie scenes. No one goes sprinting into danger, especially when responding to avalanches where, though time is of the essence, there are many scene safety considerations that must be addressed before any responders can go to the scene to start searching. This is especially applicable in training, where there is absolutely no reason to take big risks. Therefore, training (and sometimes responding) can involve a lot of standing/sitting/lying around and waiting. If it’s wintertime, we’re talking about standing around in the deep cold and waiting. And waiting some more.

I don’t know about you, but I get cold standing around waiting, and so does Geardog and his compatriots. All the avalanche dogs around here have some form of coat to wear from what I’ve seen, but Geardog is lucky enough to have D-Fa as his sponsor (don’t get the name? Say it fast, D-Fa Dogs…try it with a Kiwi accent. Got it?) so he’s sporting the fab Puff Doggy when the action is slow. He’s got enough fur to compensate for all conditions but standing around in the bitter cold, and the Puff Doggy is just the ticket.

The Puff Doggy is like a down jacket for dogs, with attention to detail not usually found in doggy gear. Puffy coats for dogs are just not that common; manufacturers usually opting for fleece or something similar. The Puff Doggy is the real deal for the dog in the backcountry, with a water resistant Pertex outer layer and a strap system meant to keep the heat in. I like that the Puff Doggy extends over the chest and down over the dog’s elbows, trapping more heat and keeping important joints warm. When Geardog lies down, the coat forms a little tent over him to keep the drafts out. The Puff Doggy, like your down coat, stuffs down small so it’s relatively easy for me to keep it in my 24-hour SAR pack just in case my furry partner needs a helping hand staying warm someday.

D-Fa is not your typical line of dog clothing. It’s designed for big dogs to use in tough conditions. Many of D-Fa’s testers are ski patrol dogs, search dogs, and other working dogs who really do need good gear. This isn’t for the Sunday stroll kind of dog; it’s for the working dog, and in my experience the gear really does deliver.

D-Fa is not too easy to find on this side of the pond but you can buy it directly from the D-Fa USA store here.

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Posted in D-Fa, jackets

Posted by: geargals | March 31, 2011

Premium Fish and Potato Dog Foods

Geardog has had some substantial food allergies in the past. We had a lot of success with a Eukanuba prescription food, but eventually that food was recalled due to contamination and Eukanuba opted to stop producing it. I didn’t like any of the other prescription options; they were either carefully disguised garbage in a veterinarian-approved package, or were so expensive I may as well just fly to Kodiak four times a year for a fly in fishing trip to stock up on salmon for Geardog. The hunt was on for a commercially available dog food that was based on fish and potatoes, didn’t contain fillers that would harm Geardog, and wouldn’t trigger any of his allergies. Here are the ones I tried:

1. Wellness Core Ocean

This was a really nice food and Geardog did decently well on it. It’s very, very fish smelling which I’m used to. His coat stayed nice on this food, and he was full of energy as usual. I like that this food is reasonably high in protein for the working dog at 36%. I think more than that is overkill (and it turns out, I am right – read the second item on the list for more information) but is still enough for a dog who works as hard as Geardog. Unfortunately, this food gave him major gas. It was so awful that I switched him to the next food on the list because the gas wasn’t tolerable to me and probably wasn’t very comfortable for Geardog.

2. Innova EVO Herring and Salmon

Innova is really capitalizing on the whole high protein idea. This food is very high in protein at 42%. Geardog did well on it for 6 months or so; or so I thought. During that time, he had a training accident and had to have minor surgery. We did a quick round of blood work and found his creatinine (kidney) levels were high. I pursued a number of follow ups, including several more blood tests, kidney x-rays, an ultrasound, and constant monitoring. After a few months of this, we moved to Durango and consulted a new vet, who noted his OTHER kidney values were now high. She wondered if the high protein levels of this food were to blame. I switched him again (to the next food on the list) and his kidney values were normal within a week. Thanks for costing me about $1000 in vet bills, Innova.

3. Taste of the Wild Pacific Stream Formula

Admittedly, Geardog has only been on this food for about a month. That’s plenty long enough for the allergies to kick in, though, and they haven’t. No allergies, no weird kidney problems, no gas, so far so good. I think it’s weird that they put smoked salmon in this; how would dogs care if it’s smoked or not? Still, he likes it, and the 25% protein level is more reasonable on his system. I think we’ve found a winner.

This little experience has also impressed on me the importance of regular blood work for dogs. Without the pre-surgery blood panel, I’d never have known the food was harming his kidneys. Thank goodness for that stick that impaled him…I think?

I have also learned that premium dog foods can be just as good, and in many ways better, than the uber-expensive prescription diets carried in vet clinics. Reading and comparing labels was really important when choosing a food. Because Geardog’s food allergies were so severe when we was a puppy, I was really worried about switching his food at all, but I was successfully able to switch him three times without triggering his allergies. Hooray for improvements in dog food technology and availability of premium ingredients on the consumer market!

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Posted in Dog Food

Posted by: geargals | March 31, 2011

Is Your Dog Getting Enough Exercise?

As the handler of a working dog, I’ve got the side bonus of my dog’s job also making him a great pet. Over the years he’s learned that when we’re at home, he should rest up, because we’re probably about to go do something strenuous. Of course, he’s learned that because we do a lot of strenuous things. He’s also learned that he’s going to have to be in the “battery charger” (kennel) pretty often whether at home or in the car, and he’s learned to think of it as his own personal space and private den. When he is put in the car or the kennel or any other waiting-type place, he just goes to sleep, knowing that he’s going to have to work hard later.

I pay pretty close attention to Geardog’s activity level, making sure he’s fit without getting overworked or injured, and rested enough to work hard when he’s needed but not so much that he gets antsy or bored at home. It occurred to me today that there are a few little habits he has that usually indicate he’s getting just the right amount of exercise. One is that he gets up in the morning when I do, takes time to cuddle with me in bed for five minutes or so, does all his morning business, and has breakfast. After breakfast, he goes back to bed for a little while. He usually naps for another hour in his kennel on his own volition, and then he’s back up and ready to face the day with me. In the evening, he’s been known to go to bed when he’s ready – he usually only does this when we’re at home in Alaska, but still it’s pretty funny to see him climbing the stairs and heading to his kennel in the bedroom when he feels it’s time to get some shuteye.

Although most people’s dogs are just pets and not working dogs, it’s just as important to make sure their activity level is sufficient to meet their needs. Here are some indications you may use to gauge whether your dog needs more exercise:

1. Inappropriate behavior at home – chewing anything but his chew toys, barking, digging, pacing – all of these things are your dog telling you he needs more stimulation in the form of exercise.

2. Your dog goes absolutely nuts when you do take him somewhere – whining or barking in the car, dashing off when you let him out, overexcitement, compulsive behavior, and inability to contain himself are all things that should indicate to you that your dog is bursting with excess energy.

3. Being out of shape – if your dog gets tired quickly on walks or hikes, he’s not fit enough. Sure, you may think, having a fit dog just means you need to exercise him more, and this is true. However, your unfit dog gets tired so quickly that he’s unable to get the stimulation he needs to get out of exercise. He’ll be tired physically, but mentally still ready to get into mischief.

4. Aggression or overassertive behavior towards other dogs – “alpha dog” behavior isn’t always a function of personality. It can also result from lack of socialization and lack of exercise. Lack of training is a big part, too, but we’ll get into that later. For now, if your dog is constantly getting into scrapes and confrontations, this is a huge red flag to you that you need to pay more attention to your dog and get him more exercise. A happily tired dog is less likely to decide to beat up on or confront other dogs.

Perhaps you are thinking, “I take my dog somewhere every day and he still acts badly. How can exercise solve the problem – he gets plenty!” Well, what you think of is “plenty” is obviously not enough if your dog is telling you otherwise. One thing to consider is what counts as exercise for a dog.

Taking your dog to the crag to wander around on his own while you climb is NOT exercise to your dog. It’s just slightly more interesting “hanging out.” It’s giving your dog license to wander around unsupervised and get into trouble. He’s not going to go run laps while you climb, he’s going to get bored and try to entertain himself, usually by doing things you wouldn’t want him to do. Any outing in which your dog spends most of his time wandering aimlessly, sitting, or waiting is not “exercise” for your dog. You still owe him a real workout session.

Going to the dog park, city-style, is also not exercise for your dog. You know what I mean – you pull up to the dog park or trailhead, let your dogs out, and stand waiting, watching the dogs play. When they seem to have had enough, you leave. You didn’t truly exercise your dog, you merely stimulated his emotional side and got him to run around a little, getting him worked up. It’s not the same thing as good, focused, real exercise. If your dog is aggressive towards other dogs and this is the main way you exercise him, consider that this type of situation merely feeds aggression and anxiety about other dogs, as your dog isn’t getting any good workout time all to himself – he’s always got to share it with a bunch of dogs that are strangers to him. No wonder he’s acting out!

So what IS good, focused exercise for a dog? Geardog and I use a combination of mountain biking, trail running, and hiking. I’m careful to always go at Geardog speed, as appropriate, and to never exhaust him. I’ve trained him to run in front of me so I can monitor his exertion level, and if he slows significantly I give him a nice long break. I also plan my routes for regular stops at water holes. I do a lot of climbing on the mountain bike when I’m taking him out for a workout; this means I work really hard but don’t go too fast for him. I NEVER let him run behind me where I can’t see him and watch what he’s doing and how he’s feeling.

When he’s a little tired in general, like he was today (as I could tell from his tendency to stop more than usual to nose around, and his unwillingness to sprint to catch up like he usually enjoys doing) I just take it easy. Several obedience sessions every week (though really, every interaction with a dog is an obedience session – more on that later) help stimulate his mind, as do the commands I give him when we’re out on the trail. When we have a SAR training on the books, he gets a light day before hand so that his batteries will be fully charged for working.

And play is a part of Geardog’s exercise, too! However, he’s never allowed to just go crazy with other dogs. I practice calling him away from play sessions so that he still remembers that he should be paying attention to me and his main job, which is, of course, listening to me. I also don’t let the play get too crazy; when things start to get out of hand I make the dogs take a break. I rarely let Geardog play with more than one other dog at a time, and keep the play sessions short and fun. I also don’t let him meet or play with every single dog that we encounter; I usually keep it to about a 5:1 ration of passbys to meet-and-greets. This way he stays socialized, but never focuses on other dogs as a source of entertainment.

Hopefully these quick tips have given you some ideas for keeping your dog’s activity level appropriate to his needs. Although your dog may not have a real job, you can “give him a job” by teaching him that he’s expected to rest up when at home because when it’s time to go, he’ll have to work hard. Dogs like jobs, and even if your dog isn’t an avalanche dog or seeing eye dog, he will appreciate feeling like he has something to offer – and will be a better companion and a good canine citizen.

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Posted in Articles

Posted by: geargals | March 30, 2011

Safe Skiing With Dog

Here’s a quick vid of the basic method by which I move Geardog around an active ski resort. There’s more to it than this but this is the basic way to ski down a mellow slope with a dog in a safe and controlled position. This keeps him under control so that he doesn’t run into the path of another skier, and protects him from potential collisions as much as possible. I can also pick him up and carry him (which, admittedly, is hard on the arms and quads) or, on steep sections, I can sideslip while he trots a few feet upslope of me. When I’m doing that, I sideslip mostly backwards and watch uphill for approaching skiers because resort skiers can’t even see each other skiing on human level, let alone a dog trotting along at dog level.

Sorry for the part where the person holding the camera decides to run and film at the same time – it’s short, if that’s any consolation. Someday I’ll make a better video of this for you.

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Posted in Avalanche Dogs

Posted by: geargals | December 11, 2010

Ruffwear Bark ‘n Boots Polar Trex

These boots are a dream come true. I’m sure you are all familiar with the regular Bark n’ Boots, which are great for dogs walking on ice or abrasive surfaces. The problem with those boots were that they didn’t stay on well in deep snow, got packed with said deep snow, and didn’t provide any protection beyond that given to the dog’s paws.

Count on Ruffwear to address all that – this year they released the Polar Trex boot. It’s a winter boot with features galore, made to protect your K9 from the ravages of snow, ice, and ski edges. Ski edges?!? Yes, in case you haven’t clued in, they are sharp. My SAR group lost a great K9 prospect when her achilles tendon was severed by the edge of a cross country ski. Other risks of skiing with dogs include soft tissue injuries and stress caused by wallowing in heavy snow (you people who take dogs into the backcountry are not doing your K9s any favors – would YOU be able to run at ski speed through shoulder-deep snow?), avalanche risk, cold injuries, and just plain exhaustion. Some dogs do need to be around skis. Resort avalanche dogs come to mind, of course. Most other dogs don’t need to be anywhere near skis. But if there is one thing I know about dog owners is that they are really good at ignoring risks and potential dog injuries to justify bringing their dogs everywhere they go. So now dogs can enjoy a bit more protection thanks to Ruffwear.

It’s a long way off that soapbox, but I made it. Now I can tell you about the features of the Polar Trex. Like I mentioned,it’s tall – it extends a good long way up the dog’s leg. This helps the boot stay on and thanks to tough Cordura, protects the leg from ski cuts. I’d love to have seen Kevlar there, but I think that might take the price of the boots out of reach. The boots do not rely on velcro at all, which is great because it doesn’t work well in the snow. Instead, there is a flat-strap buckle with a cam closure at the top of the foot, and a drawstring cord closure on the very top. These closures allow almost infinite adjustments and a much better fit for the dog. Reflective trim, snow-specific tread pattern, and internal cuff add key fit and performance features.

Getting them on can be a bit of a process; you’ll need to have a well-behaved and patient dog to get it done. Like the original Bark n Boots, they are made for bigger dogs and you may need different sizes for the front and back paws. Geardog is 50 lbs and wears a small in front and an extra small in back – so if you’ve got one of those itty bitty purse dogs, you’re out of luck. Which is fine, because those dogs aren’t exactly winter climate dogs anyway; just leave them in the purse. The accompanying sock liners are longer than the last iteration, and they may help avoid irritation and pressure points if the dog needs to wear the boots for a long time. I usually only use boots when we’re standing around or when it’s really, really cold, so Geardog doesn’t have to wear them for long periods. They’re still a lifesaver during cold snaps and long trips – if you’ve ever seen a dog limping because of cold paws, you’ll know what I mean. All dogs get cold paws; that’s why Iditarod mushers use booties. Even then, you’ll see dogs limping along because of the contact with the cold ground. I’d wager that Iditarod mushers can’t really afford the hundreds of Polar Trex booties they’d need every year, so they use the easily replaceable felt ones, but I’d love to see these boots tested by a musher to see how they do over long, long miles. Lance Mackey? You listening?

I’m really happy with Ruffwear for taking a lot of customer feedback on the original boot design and coming out with an improved model. I really like these boots and Geardog is ready for some grand adventures in the snow, no matter how fall the mercury falls.

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Posted in booties, Ruffwear

Posted by: geargals | October 11, 2010

D-Fa Moon Walker Rain/Visibility Jacket

Rain. All the time. When are we done here again?


We took a trip from the Canadian southwest to the American northwest. Sounds pretty epic, eh? Believe it or not, the two regions are not that far apart. And despite my disappointment with a southwestern region that does not feature cow skulls, alien desert landings, and, most importantly, hot dry weather, we found some pretty fun stuff in the American northwest. But we also found lots of rain.

I’m not a rain fan.

I am also not a fan of how dark things get when it does nothing but rain. There’s no snow to reflect moon and star light, there are no northern lights to provide a helpful silhouette of the trees, and whatever light there is reflects in confusing ways on dark wet streets. It’s not a very safe situation for our canine friends. Geardog is good off leash but I had serious concerns about his safety.

Along came Geardog’s search and rescue sponsor, D-Fa (“D for Dog” in a Kiwi accent, get it?), to save the day! D-Fa provided this incredible rain jacket that is not only good for keeping your dog dry, but is extremely high visibility and reflective for dark and stormy conditions. Now, I’ve NEVER been one for putting clothes on my dog, and yes, I think you are an idiot if you do it, but spending time in the Canadian southwest has taught me that a rain jacket for your dog is not the same as clothes. Even if your dog – like most dogs – doesn’t care if it gets wet, you might potentially get tired of putting your soaking wet dog into your car for the umpteenth time. You might also get a little weary of the wet dog-print your tired pooch leaves in the carpet after he goes out for a long romp in the rain. A rain jacket for your dog can give you and your car a little break from the damp. The huge stripes of super reflective fabric on both sides and the top of this jacket are great touches for low light conditions.

I was concerned that high-energy Geardog would get too warm in a jacket, so while testing out this item I carefully monitored his body heat, putting my hand under the jacket to make sure there was no heat buildup. And there wasn’t! This thing breathes really well, so well that I hope D-Fa makes jackets for people someday. It kept Geardog really nice and dry, and as you can tell from the pic, very highly visible. Even in the daytime it would serve as a great safety tool if you live in an area with a big deer hunting season. If you live in the desert or in a snowy clime, you can get the Moon Walker in neon green as well. I chose the blaze orange, because it seems silly to put a green jacket on your dog for visibility if you’re in the green woods all the time. Incidentally, there is a SAR team in this region that uses green jackets as their official uniform. Does this completely not make sense to anyone else? Don’t you want to be seen if you’re doing search and rescue work?

Anyway, for wintertime in the American northwest/Canadian southwest, this is a vital piece of dog gear. Like I said, I’m not a rain fan, so I give D-Fa credit for perhaps saving my sanity with this jacket.

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Posted in D-Fa, jackets

Posted by: geargals | August 18, 2010

Garmin Astro Keeps Track of Your Dog

I wanted an Astro for the longest time. How cool is this thing? Basically it’s a fully-featured GPS with an extra transmitter mounted on a dog collar. You put the collar on your dog and the Astro tracks where you go and where your dog goes. The Astro can also direct you to your dog’s location.

The Astro was originally developed for hunting dogs, especially for those who tree their quarry. It comes with a dataset that tells the user if the “dog has treed quarry” or is “on point”. If you are not a hunter, you can change the settings so that it will just tell you if your dog is moving or sitting or what have you. Basically it tells you what your dog is currently doing – moving or not moving. I don’t understand how the hunting settings can figure out if the dog is “on point” or “sitting” – surely this device can’t be that smart – but whatever. It’s useful information; the moving/not moving part, at least.

Lots of my fellow search and rescue dog handlers use the Astro. Many of them have dogs that range so far that they essentially disappear for a length of time. Having the Astro helps those handlers know what their dog is up to. I have a dog that checks in regularly and doesn’t disappear, but it’s still fun to look at the GPS tracks generated by our searches to determine exactly how he tracked down his subject. And if something happens to him, it’s nice to know that I can find him with the GPS. I worry about him in Alaska because there are so many traps and snares out there. It’s not that uncommon for pets to die in traps, a working dog is probably in even more danger because we are off trail so much where traps are more likely. So the Astro is just another layer of security. It’s also just another thing for your dog to carry so I only use it when I’m in heavy brush or it’s nighttime or I know I won’t be able to see my dog very well. I’m kind of over tracking him as he runs along next to my mountain bike, but occasionally I will still do it because it’s fun. I just am mindful that he’s wearing a big, not-exactly-light collar as he’s running. It doesn’t seem to bother him but it’s worth considering.

So there are many professional-type applications for this device, but let’s face it. There are tons of dog owners who need this because they keep letting their dogs run off. If you are the type of person who turns every hike or walk into an extended “looking for the dog” adventure, if you’ve posted more than one Facebook status about how your dog is lost AGAIN, and if none of your friends will meet up with you for a bike ride because they know they’ll end up helping you look for the dog for at least a half hour each time, you owe it to everyone you know to buy an Astro and use it. Actually you owe it to everyone you know and everyone you don’t know to use a leash or even, I don’t know, train your dog.

Anyway, operating the Astro is kind of a hit and miss experience. I don’t find the menus particularly intuitive and in fact they are so roundabout that it’s a bit annoying and frustrating. The Garmin software doesn’t work with my Mac so I had to find another way to get the tracks off the GPS unit to look at them on a map, but it wasn’t that hard. Gathering the information from all of our trips is really fun and valuable, but I wish I could figure out how to download the trip info (distance, time, elevation, time stopped, average speed, average moving speed, etc.) onto my computer instead of just having to read it off the GPS each time. It’s also important to remember to turn off the tracking before you leave the trailhead when done; if you leave it on you’ll turn on the GPS to pull the track off and end up tracking yourself from the trailhead back to your house and screwing up your data with a nice long as-the-crow-flies line between your house and the trailhead.

Now that I’ve had a few months with the Astro, I kind of have the hang of the menus but I still wish they were easier to navigate. My biggest complaint aside from the cumbersome menus is that there is no “lock buttons” feature so when you put it in your pack you just have to take your chances that you won’t jostle any critical buttons. Or maybe there IS a lock feature but I just can’t find it. Whatever. If there is one, it’s hard to find, how’s that?

Still, I really get a kick out of tracking my dog’s movements and I think it’s fun to know exactly what he is doing when he jumps off trail for a few seconds. Once I got the hang of things it’s not that hard to use. It seems to me that most GPS units are kind of annoying to navigate (pun intended!) so this is not just an Astro thing. Generally it can be a fun toy, a curiosity, a great tool for dog sports, or even a plain old GPS if you just need that. So it’s a worthwhile investment; it just doesn’t come cheap. Obedience class is cheaper. Just sayin’.

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Posted in electronics, Garmin | Tags:

Posted by: geargals | October 28, 2009

Ruffwear Beacon


Ruffwear is kind enough to invest in Geardog’s safety and sent a care package his way. We were excited to see that the package included a Beacon safety light! The Beacon arrived just in time for us; last year’s strobe light had proven itself unreliable as the darkness descended this year. Since we Alaskans usually end up walking our dogs in darkness most of the winter, we have to find a way to keep track of our canine friends in the dark. The Beacon is a completely insanely bright red light that can clip to a collar or harness so you can track your dog from space. Well, maybe not from that far, but the Beacon is really super bright! We switched it on in daylight when we got it, and even then we were blinded by the brightness. This light is, er, noticeable to say the least. It has three modes – slow blink, seizure-inducing blink, and steady light. I usually use the steady mode, but if you really want to attract attention, the strobe mode will do it. On a collar or harness, the blinking light won’t shine in your dog’s eyes so they’re probably OK with it. Geardog never seems to notice the crazy lights I keep attaching to him, so the Beacon has his seal of approval.

The Beacon helps me keep track of Geardog on leisure walks and on searches and trainings, and helps drivers and other trail users spot him in the darkness. It’s another great tool that provides another layer of safety for dogs, so how can you refuse? Grab a Beacon for your dog today.
It’s a $12 investment that can help keep your dog alive and home where he belongs.

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Posted in Ruffwear, safety

Posted by: geargals | September 26, 2009

Booda Floppy Disc Toy

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I can’t believe we haven’t covered the Floppy Disc yet. This toy saved Geardog’s frisbee career. See, even though Geardog is tough and rowdy, he has delicate gums. His plastic discs were wreaking havoc on his teeth and the audience at frisbee events was always a little skeeved by seeing blood smears on the discs during competition. I have to say, so was I.

Geardog and I were also a little annoyed by watching the other dogs kick our butts by using the Floppy Discs, which are made of soft fabric, making them slower in the air and easier for dogs to catch. Never ones to give up a competitive edge, we seized the day and switched to the Floppies. I’d love to say we’re now the national champions at frisbee, but in reality we’ve never actually made it back to a competition. Still, we like to play frisbee for fun, and I never go anywhere without the Floppy Disc just in case Geardog needs a quick workout. He’s yet to hurt his gums on the Floppy and despite its soft construction, he only goes through one disc a year. These things are tough! Which is good, even when you have a toy budget as big as Geardog’s.

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Posted in Booda, toys

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